Kombu salmon, with jeju Mandarin vinaigrette and wakeme ($19)
This Japanese-Korean-cross izakaya in Surry Hills has only been open three weeks and there’s already a buzz about it.
Tokki reminds me of some of my favourite restaurants in Melbourne: Mr Miyagi, Kong, Supernormal. And as far as I’m concerned Sydney needs a good dollop of Melbourne culinary attitude. So, come aboard Tokki, you sassy, fun thing.
Japanese + Korean = heck yes
Found towards the Central end of Foveaux Street in Surry Hills, Tokki’s promise to the people of Sydney is a casual, fun eating house reminiscent of the Japanese and Korean izakayas. It doesn’t let us down, bringing some of the buzzing nightlife of Tokyo and Seoul to the harbour city.
The space is freshly renovated. A lesson in Japanese elegance with a sub major in Nordic minimalism, there’s plenty of white brick, white wood and white tiles, with some black highlights. The large-ish dining space is also swimming in natural light.
Grab a stool at the bar or window or a seat at the long communal tables and enjoy.
Fun food to share
Ok time for the main act. Tokki’s menu puts a contemporary spin on some northeast Asian classics, with dishes designed to be shared. The result is fun things like yellow fin tuna sashimi with a bacon cream fraiche, BBQ corn with sichimi and yuzu yoghurt, and the ‘crabbie roll’ – that’s spanner crab wrapped up in a brioche roll.
The Tokki BBQ meat try is a highlight, says someone who’s borderline vego. The chicken’s illegally juicy and the beef ribs as delicate as a lace doily. “Fucking amazing, slow cooked tenderness,” was the husband’s description.
Service is fast too.
There’s two ‘Tokki make you full’ tasting options – a $65pp and an $85pp – both a combination of the chef’s favourites. On the Friday night we visited, we opted for the lighter chef’s menu and it was plenty of food. Plenty.
The drinks list also deserves a little ol’ mention, made up of Japanese whiskeys, sake, bespoke cocktails, small batch beer and a mostly biodynamic/organic wine list. The latter I really appreciate because I’m luuurving my natural wines at the moment. There’s also a sake pairing if you’re inclined.
Yellow fin tuna, with bacon cream fraiche, roasted pine nut and lime ponzu ($21)
KFC bao – Korean fried chicken, with katsu sauce ($7)
Menbosha – DIY prawn yuzu, with siracha mayo on brioche ($15)
Kingfish cheek, with dashi vinaigrette and fried garlic ($16)
Tokki BBQ meat tray – short beef rib, pork belly, baby pork galbi and gochujang chicken ($29)
Tokki Monaka – peach compote and red bean jam wafer ($8)
The final word
I have a lot of love for Tokki – so does the husband. In fact, Jude’s insisting Tokki’s in his top five meals in Sydney (up there with this guy and this gal). This is a big call for someone who mostly groans when I tell him we’re having dinner in the Asian genre. But Tokki is “hearty Asian”, he tells me, “man-style Asian”.
In fact, he’s already talking about organising a man date with his buddies here.
Tokki | 44A Foveaux Street, Surry Hills, New South Wales
tokki.net.au
